Lake Havasu at 118 Degrees

Most people would find 118 degrees unbearable. However, there are travel destinations worldwide that regularly experience such high summer temperatures, and many choose these places for their holiday vacations. California is home to Palm Springs, while Arizona boasts the London Bridge in Lake Havasu City.

This summer I received a text from my long-time friend, Keith. He informed me that he had just spent $100k on a new jet boat. Keith’s recent purchase was an impressive 25-foot Yamaha 252SD. I congratulated him for finally fulfilling a pact we had made 22 years earlier.

I met Keith at Marina del Rey in 1987, where he managed a restaurant named Casola’s. He had generously offered me a bartending job after I had recently moved from New York City. Later in 2000, both our families had young children. We believed it was the perfect time to invest in watercraft. We resided near Marina del Rey in Los Angeles-the world’s largest man-made marina with over 5,000 boat slips. Water had always been a significant part of our lives, and Los Angeles has the Marina connected to the Pacific Ocean and is home to a beautiful freshwater reservoir named Pyramid Lake.

I visited a local Yamaha dealership and was initially interested in purchasing a four-seat wave runner. I believed it would be suitable for me, my wife, and our two kids. Although it was an impressive machine, I soon recognized that as my children grew, the wave-runner would not grow with us. I then noticed a 20-foot boat with eight seats and eight cup holders. It seemed like the ideal choice for my family and I purchased it.

While Keith never did buy his watercraft, I now had a boat that could comfortably accommodate both of our families. In retrospect, purchasing that boat was worth every adventure and memory we crafted on the water over the years. I still own it and have taken it to Lake Havasu with Keith on several occasions.

For Keith, the purchase of his new boat was a “better late than never” scenario. While Keith admitted to having no experience driving a jet boat he requested my help in launching his new boat in Havasu’s Colorado River aground the Labor Day holiday.

Lake Havasu sunset looking west toward California
Lake Havasu sunset looking west toward California

If anyone has ever launched a boat at Havasu, they would realize that it’s akin to driving in NYC for the first time after crossing the Hudson River—it’s extremely stressful. There are hundreds of trucks and boats swiftly occupying multiple parallel lanes at the boat ramps. One must back up their boat into the water promptly. New boat owners should avoid this chaos, or they risk crashing into other boats. Labor Day, July 4th, and Memorial Day are, simply put, chaotic in Havasu.

I agreed with Keith’s reasons for wanting to go, so I agreed. I was scheduled to fly back from Ohio to Los Angeles late at night, then drive five hours the following morning to meet up with him. I like Lake Havasu; it has its own unique allure.

Lake Havasu was once just another hot, dry stretch of desert. In 1958, real estate developer Robert P. McCulloch founded Lake Havasu City when he purchased 3,353 acres of property on the east side of the lake. McCulloch’s real estate agent, Robert Plumer, faced challenges persuading potential homeowners and landowners to relocate to the area. Despite its location near the Colorado River, the region was hot, dry, and somewhat isolated from other development hubs.

McCulloch’s real estate agent discovered that London Bridge was up for sale. He convinced McCulloch to purchase and relocate it to the area, aiming to attract potential visitors and, ultimately, buyers. The particular London Bridge they acquired was built in the 1830s and had previously spanned the River Thames in London, England.

London Bridge, England
London Bridge, England

McCulloch agreed “to the craziest idea he had ever heard of.” He purchased the bridge for $2.46 million (at that time), and the exterior granite blocks from the original bridge were meticulously cut and transported to Arizona. Completed in 1971, the bridge over the canal connects the island to the main shore along the river. The river serves as the state line between California and Arizona and is patrolled as a federal waterway by both the coast guard and the states’ sheriffs.

As I set out for Havasu from the LA area, I was sharply conscious of the prolonged drought on the west coast, compounded by a heatwave that coincided with my visit to the waterway. I had previously visited Havasu with my boat during 120-degree weather, so I knew what awaited me. Many new visitors are unaware that approximately 14 people die in the area annually for a variety of reasons. One primary reason is excessive alcohol consumption, which leads to dehydration. Between the effects of dehydration and the intense heat, it’s easy for someone to pass out and drown. I always bring water-filter straws, allowing me to drink directly from the river if necessary. It’s crucial to carry ample water, wear a life vest, and remain vigilant since the waterway boasts some of the world’s fastest boats. People cherish their freedom in Havasu, but that comes with inherent responsibilities. It’s essential to heed warnings and stay informed to avoid becoming a tragic statistic.

When I checked the water levels the previous year, I had wondered if there was sufficient water to enjoy the area without risking grounding on sandbars. In 2022, data showed that Lake Powell, which feeds into the river, stood at 28% water capacity, while Lake Mead, which supplies Lake Havasu, was at 32%. Remarkably, the stretch of the Colorado River between Lake Mead and Lake Havasu was at +6%! Lake Havasu’s water level rarely fluctuates beyond 5 feet, and during the summer, it typically remains at 98% full or more. California holds the most significant water entitlements from these lakes, with Lake Havasu functioning as a balancing reservoir. This year there was ample water in all of the reservoirs as record rainfall had inundated the west coast and there was no longer any drought.

Things were indeed looking promising.

Sunset color wash on London Bridge Resort
Sunset color wash on London Bridge Resort

I booked a stay at two places in Havasu. One, at the London Bridge Resort (SV) located at 1477 Queens Bay, Lake Havasu City, Arizona 86403 and another at AirBnB named Shane and Michele’s Place, located about a mile up the hill. 

I’ve always stayed at the London Bridge Resort and loved that they offer boat slips right beside the bridge. Since we were a group of three, I opted for the two-bedroom Bridgeview resort suite. It had separate rooms for two of us, with a shared bathroom, while the third person had the convenience of a pullout sofa bed accompanied by an additional bathroom and shower. A spiral staircase leads up to a spacious rooftop deck that offers a panoramic view. The suite cost around $400 per night. They also have smaller rooms priced at $200 a night, and the boat slip comes at an additional charge of $50 daily ($200 a night for non-quests).

Two-bedroom Bridgeview Resort Suite - London Beach Resort
Two-bedroom Bridgeview Resort Suite

The resort frequently hosts events in the pool area, complete with external services. The lively atmosphere is filled with music and can get quite boisterous. If you’re into vibrant parties, this will be right up your alley. However, if you prefer tranquility, I’d recommend reserving a room on the hotel’s opposite side. For golf enthusiasts, the Bridgewater Links Golf Course is conveniently connected to the hotel. Additionally, there are beaches along the canal and a neighboring island park for added recreation.

Bridgewater Links Golf Course
Bridgewater Links Golf Course

The first day there was a slow stream of boaters dropping the craft into the water at Windsor Boat Launch (SV) at 699 London Bridge Rd, Lake Havasu City, AZ 86403. There are several separate ramps there and a huge parking lot to prep your boat.

Once I got the boat in the water, it was a short distance to the inlet to the canal that reaches the London Bridge. The slip was open and easy to tie up the boat. The 118 degrees the first day was brutal until I made it to the front desk where they gave me as much cold-water bottles as needed. Once you check in the front desk, they will give you stick-on tags to put on your car and boat which will allow you to park your car anywhere in their lot and dock your boat in any of their slips.

Keith Lovegrove Making His First Drive

The three of us decided to take the boat out just as the sun began to set. The blend of mountains, desert, and the expansive river created an awe-inspiring vista. I’ve always had an affinity for the desert landscape, which is one of the reasons I registered PalmSprings.com in the early 90s. The weather there is quite similar to Havasu, though it lacks the grandeur of the Colorado River. As dusk settled, we steered the boat to the center of the river, turned on some music, activated the boat lights, set up the underwater boat seats, and waded into the warm 90-degree water. A quirky local trick when wading in Lake Havasu is to zip up one’s life vest and slip the legs through the armholes, wearing it akin to a diaper. This method cleverly disguises the life vest, allowing for sun tanning while casually floating in the water.

The deepest parts of Havasu don’t exceed 40 feet, with many areas being a mere 15 feet or even shallower. After our aquatic adventure, we returned to our hotel slip and treated ourselves to a delightful dinner at the Martini Bay Bar and Grill situated on the hotel’s ground floor. The food and service were exceptional, enticing us to dine there every night of our stay.

Nighttime Room View of the London Bridge

 

The Dixie Belle Paddle Wheeler
The Dixie Belle Paddle Wheeler

The next place we stayed at was Shane and Michele’s Place which had all the amenities one could expect from renting a home overlooking the lake about a half mile up the hill. It was $225 a night and I suggest you book at least a 4-day stay since AirBnB charges and renters charge fees that will be better absorbed with a longer stay.  It was well decorated and the back pool area had a jacuzzi, a fire pit, large dining table and two separate BBQ. Oh, and also a large chess lawn set and corn-hole elevated playing area. 

The interior was sell designed and very comfortable and can host 10 quests. We preferred the staying at Shane and Michele’s AirBnB. It is was away from the hustle and bustle of the touristy areas neat the Bridge and  you get the feel of what it would be like living in Lake Havasu City.

Back on the boat we we next embarked our journey down river. For those who relish driving a boat over vast distances, the Colorado River is a dream destination. It’s remarkable to consider this river’s origins in the Grand Canyon. In my view, it stands as the world’s premier recreational river. As we traveled northward, the river’s path became somewhat narrower in stretches, but the encompassing desert landscape was breathtakingly captivating. The desert here is synonymous with its clear blue skies, and it’s imperative to have a Bimini top on your boat unless you wish to endure the scorching sun. Observing the wave-runners exposed to the elements, I hoped they had nearby refuge from the relentless sun. To truly appreciate the desert, one must come well-prepared. I’d advise against activities like tubing, waterboarding, or skiing on the river during its peak summer weekends and holidays. The potent combination of intense heat, tanning oils, and alcohol consumption can render this river treacherous at times.

As we continued our northward journey, we halted multiple times for refreshing swims. With the air temperature soaring to 118 degrees, increased speeds only intensified the sweltering sensation, akin to being engulfed by a blazing furnace. However, the river water north of Havasu Island offers a much cooler and invigorating respite.

Roughly 7 miles further up, there’s a spot known as the Sand Bar. As the name suggests, it’s relatively shallow, ranging from two to three feet in depth, and is demarcated by buoys sit in place by the boaters that moor there. The Sand Bar turns into quite the hotspot during busy times, evoking the vibes of Mardi Gras combined with Ibiza’s energy.

Stay cautious and alert, as sheriff boats might make an unexpected appearance, potentially cutting your river escapade short if they suspect excessive drinking or any illicit activities. Bear in mind, the river is under federal jurisdiction. Besides the local sheriffs, the Coast Guard too maintains authority over these waters.

Topock66 Restaurant on the Colorado River
Topock66 Restaurant on the Colorado River

Another 15 miles northward, the prominent 40-highway bridge stretches across the river. To the north and on the river’s right side, there’s a marina for refueling and a restaurant where one can grab a drink and a meal. Over the years, this place has evolved and is now known as Topock66 (SV). Originating as a quaint pitstop along the iconic Route 66, it has transformed into a notable tourist attraction steeped in intriguing history. The establishment can accommodate hundreds, offering a pool, and both indoor and outdoor seating. While accessible by car, the true charm lies in docking your boat there, a unique experience that truly sets it apart.

Further into my northward exploration, I stumbled upon a sight I hadn’t expected: a political enclave nestled on the riverbanks, teeming with RVs, boats, and hammocks. Describing these inhabitants as right-leaning would be a modest characterization. Boat owners often rally behind the slogan “Don’t Tread on Me,” and in this particular stretch of the river, people proudly display this sentiment through clothing and flags.

Politics on the River
Politics on the River

Hidden from plain sight and only made evident by a sign at its entrance was a cove called “Pirate Cove Resort (SV). Located at 100 Park Moabi Rd, Needles, CA 92363.” Curiosity piqued, I carefully steered my boat into the narrow channel, half-expecting to encounter the legendary desert pirates I’d heard tales of. Instead, what unfolded before me was a quaint resort, with boats anchored and people leisurely wading in the shallow waters. A replica pirate ship stood anchored in the canal, and nearby, a lofty platform once had catered to ziplining enthusiasts. The resort brims with untapped potential. Though tucked away from the usual tourist routes, it could be an idyllic spot for those looking to lodge and launch their boats directly onto the river—if only they could master the art of effective marketing.

Pirates Cove Resort On the River
Pirates Cove Resort On the River

We made our way back to Havasu Island and decided to steer the boat towards another famed spot on the river, Copper Canyon. The canyon is marked by a towering, jagged 45-foot rock pinnacle that thrill-seekers often leap from. However, a word of caution: there’s a submerged ledge near the jump-off point. It’s imperative to jump far enough out to avoid it, as not doing so can result in severe injury or even death. Another word to the wise—once you’ve nestled your boat within the confines of the canyon, other boats might hem you in. The canyon offers limited space, and on crowded days, you might find yourself trapped until sundown.

Copper Canyon
Copper Canyon – It’s Never This Quiet – Lucky Me

We decided to venture further south from Copper Canyon to see just how much further we could go on the river. There was a lot of barren land for many miles but we cam upon the reason why the LA Basin is sustained by the Colorado River. 

The Whitsett Intake Pumping Plant is situated on the California side, near the very end of the navigable river. Built in the 1930’s The plant is the starting point of the Colorado River Aqueduct supply and lifts water out of Lake Havasu 291 feet, from an elevation of 450 feet above sea level to 741 feet.  

Whitsett Intake Pumping Plant
Whitsett Intake Pumping Plant

We revisited an old favorite downtown watering hole that has stood the test of time for at least two decades: the Desert Martini (SV), located at 2120 McCulloch Blvd N, Lake Havasu City, AZ 86403. Their signature drink, a nod to their namesake, is a generous glass goblet brimming with beer and adorned with a green olive garnish. And, just as we remembered, the table shuffleboard was still there, offering nostalgic fun as it did years ago.

The Desert Martini
The Desert Martini

Our third and final day included an early morning meal at the best breakfast eatery in all of Lake Havasu. Makai Café (SV) 1425 N McCulloch Blvd, Lake Havasu City, AZ 86403. The diner is located just across the London Bridge on the island. Great food and service. Our waitress Ciera was so charming I had to include her in my photo experience.

Waitress Ciera at Makai Cafe
Waitress Ciera at Makai Cafe

The 5-hour ride back home to Los Angeles was long. I will continue to make that drive, with boat in tow, to visit Lake Havasu and its incredible Colorado River. There is really nothing like it and should be experienced.

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